Day #2: Maria Taferl, Melk

Today we visited the second most popular Marian Shrine in Austria, the Maria Taferl. The shrine is built on a hill overlooking the Danube River Valley. When the area first converted to Christianity, they constructed a cross in a tree where a former pagan altar had been located. When a man tried to chop down the tree with an ax, both of his legs were seriously injured in an "accident," (no one seemed to know the details) and so he repented and supplicated the Blessed Virgin for aid. She healed him and a shrine to the Pieta was built there in her honor. Later a church was constructed around the shrine. Many miracles have occurred because of her intercession.
When we arrived at the shrine, the valley was covered in a blanket of mist, so we couldn't actually see the valley. But the mist extended far into the horizon like a sea of white, which was lovely, as it lapped against the nearby hill crests. The pagan altar was outside the church off to the side. It reminded me of Aslan's stone table.

But what was really beautiful lay inside, in the church.  I have never seen so much salvation history crammed into one building. I stepped inside and my breath was taken away! There was gold all over the sanctuary, beautifully crafted. The Pieta was surrounded by golden rays of light above the central tabernacle. The ambo was decorated with statues of the four evangelists, and behind where the lector would have stood was a relief of the finding of Jesus in the Temple. Above the door to the stairway leading to the ambo was an image of the Holy Face - which I think was meant to point to the purpose of the prophet : to reveal to the people the face of God. There was a painting of St. Teresa of Avila ( I think, I know she was at least a Carmelite) pointing to the words"Aux Pati, aux Mori": Suffering or Death.

The side altars were also riddled with Scripture. The side altar on the left contained a painting of the Nativity with a statue of a shepherd and a Magi on either side. Above the tabernacle was a Pascal lamb. The side altar on the right had a painting of the Crucifixion. On one side of the altar was Moses with a snake on a pole healing a sick man at his feet, while on the other side was Abraham about to sacrifice Isaac. Every detail was carefully placed, such as the set of dice above INRI on the gate to the right side altar.

The organ itself was a sight of awe and splendor. Elizabeth and I gawked at it when we saw it, and we determined that if we ever become rich we will have a room with stained glass windows and an organ decorated with gold lief. My fingers itched to play it!

There was also a staircase in the foyer leading up to the choir loft which was full of images of the Blessed Mother and others which intercessors had given the church. This one was one of my favorites (sorry about the shadow).

Next on the itinerary was lunch, which was exquisite. I'm so glad the school pays for us to get such fantastic food! I felt like one of the food tasters on Iron Chef America, the presentation was so fine and nice. We ate a crepe soup with a chicken and vegetable broth, a very tender beef steak ( I think) with gravy and golden potatoes and vegetables. The dessert was a crusted cream cheese with cranberries (I think).

The next stop was the Benedictine Monastery in Melk. Elizabeth, Annie, and I sang helped sing for Mass. The organ, was, once again gorgeous, although this one also we were only able to gaze upon from a distance. :-( This one had an inscription below it:  In tympano et choro in chordis et organo laudate deum. The high altar was set far from the altar rail with the choir stalls built between. Another altar had been built closer to the pews (an addition since Vatican II). Then we received a tour of the monastery! During which we saw a 600-700 year old copy of the rule of St. Benedict, the oldest, smallest hand written book in Melk, vestments of a Baroque Benedictine Abbot, still in use for special occasions. There were also some vestments implemented by Emperor Joseph II during the Age of Reason. This emperor had a strong over-emphasis on practicality, so he had leather vestments made because they last longer. He also had a re-usable coffin. :-P The Church was reconstructed in the 18th century in the Baroque Style, which was meant to show the strength and energy of the Church.

Some cool musical facts about the place: Marie Antoinette came to the monastery on her way to get married (she was 14), traveling with about 290 servants, and the monks had an opera composed just for her visit. Mozart also came to the monastery at the age of 14 with his parents and sister. There was a concert room with windows which opened onto a raised room where the musicians were kept, so the music would drift through the windows onto the scene of an opera or a ball. The windows could be closed if the music was too loud. The organ was from the 20th century (it was restored and then a new one was built). The facade is still the same from the Baroque Period, however. The organ chests were also kept. It consists of 3500 pipes and is used every Sunday and also for concerts. The church itself, dedicated to Peter and Paul, had a rather theatrical feel to it, in a way, because the designer was a theater artist, as the Baroque Period was a time where opera was a strong influence.

To finish off there was a beautiful sunset!!! The bus ride back I got to talk to Sister Joan Paul, a TOR sister here in charge of music. She was so excited that there were two organ majors on campus! She didn't even know there was a music program/major at Franciscan, she hasn't been there in five years. Annie and I are going to have an "audition" for music ministry tomorrow in the Mariathron (really, I think she just wants to hear us play).
That's my second day! Tomorrow we get a tour of the Kartause, and Orientation starts! Tedious but necessary. Subject to the requirements of the service, eh?